Types of Dress Shoes with laces: Oxfords, Brogues, Bluchers, Derby, Spectators

The Different Types Of The Most Elegant Dress Shoes

How to know if my shoes are Oxford, Brogues, Spectators, Bluchers, Derbies, Gibson, Balmoral if they are all types of dress shoes with laces. Differences between them so I can identify my favourite dress shoes.

And here some also include buckle shoes, double or single buckle to give even more richness to the subject. The greatest possible precision in defining what we do and what we wear helps us to decide better and provides clarity and information. Which is always better than confusion, of course.

The prehistory of this type of shoe comes from Scotland, in the 16th century. There we have the first references to the Balmoral, the name by which some people know Oxfords. Although, given that there was no continuity, it is no more than a footnote.

The origin of the classic Oxford shoe

Now, travelling back three hundred years in time and arriving at the university town of Oxford, we find that students have grown tired of tall boots and are starting to wear a much lower model of ankle boots, with a slightly higher heel and a side fastening. This model will be the “Oxonian“. In time, the zip will centre, the heel will come down, the ankle will show and the laces will make their appearance. We now have the oxford shoe in our midst.

This type of shoe has a narrow last and the lace-up closure is an extension of the vamp. That is to say, when the laces are tied, there is practically no space in between, forming a closed lacing. Underneath the lacing, a tongue is sewn to the upper to close the entire upper of the shoe.

The cap toe is the quintessential formal Oxford shoe and the most traditional. It can be worn with all kinds of styles. But with a full suit and tie, it is simply perfect.

Although there are options just as stylish, but adding a touch of colour to the classic Oxford Cap Toe

The Oxford Brogues

One of the most classic variations of the Oxford is the perforated decoration. This is what defines the well-known Brogues. Depending on the type of decoration, these brogues can be full brogue or wingtip (decoration along the entire length of the shoe).

In this case, if in addition to all this decoration, the colours of the shoe are two and in contrast, we would have a type of Oxford Wingtip called Spectator or in the British Isles “co-respondent shoes”. And you already know that it is a model that we love at Beatnik.

Red Oxford style shoe for men handmade in Spain by Beatnik Shoes

Half-brogues are also available with less decoration, with perforations on the toe and on the central seam parallel to the toe. The Quarter Brogues only have decoration on the central seam. And Longwing brogues have the central decorative line around the whole piece up to the back of the shoe.

Bluchers, a very warlike origin

Now, let’s go to the centre of Europe, to Prussia, to meet Marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher. This military man, who fought in the Napoleonic wars at the beginning of the 19th century, wanted his soldiers to be able to put on and take off their boots more quickly. He devised a simple lacing system sewn to the vamp. No other decorations or added parts. This solution was successful and was later adopted in other types of boots and finally in the Oxford type shoes, called Bluchers.

As with the Oxford, the Brogue-style decoration is also possible in Bluchers, with all its possible variants. For example, this women’s Blucher in turquoise blue.

Or in this case, a Spectator LongWing

The Derby shoe, a shoe with designation of origin

Lastly, let’s go to Derby shoes. One of the possible origins of this name is the Earl of Derby, specifically the 14th, Edward Stanley, who became Queen Victoria’s Prime Minister. An elegant man, but according to legend, with a wide instep, he needed a wider shoe model. The reality is that in the middle of the 19th century, this model appeared as a sportier variant of the traditional Oxford.

The construction is similar, but the fastening is much more open. The upper of the shoe includes the entire upper tongue. And on the sides of this tongue and up to the sole of the shoe, a piece that includes the laces is sewn. Thus, the closure is much more flexible and the upper of the shoe is divided into two seams. Another name for the Derby is Gibson, which was originally the name given to women’s Derby shoes.

As you can see, there are multiple denominations to define the most comfortable and elegant dress shoes for men and women. The Oxford. And the Blucher. Or the Spectator. Well, it depends on the moment, but we can tell you that they are all a delight. Would you like to take a look around our shop? Here you have the link.

See you soon!